I've been reading Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan, so I've been thinking about waves a lot.
Tonight I dove back into "the archives" and randomly chose a few wave photos to share, all taken along the Sonoma Coast.
Who knows what this winter will bring? :)
Just ordered the book from the library, but there are 70 holds on 15 copies! Might have to go out and buy it.
ReplyDeleteWow! That's an impressive wait-list! I'll admit I found out about this book in a somewhat round-about way. I read a story in the NYT by Jay Caspian Kang called "Writing Waves" in which the author mentions Finnegan's earlier two-part article "Playing Doc's Games" published in the New Yorker in 1992. I read that two-part article, and appreciated Finnegan's general writing and his descriptions of local waves (in San Francisco). So I've moved on to read Barbarian Days. I'm intrigued by how difficult it is to describe waves. Finnegan does it well, especially from a surfer's perspective. I remember also liking Henry Beston's wave descriptions in The Outermost House.
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